Sunday, October 6, 2013

Day 7 – Morning in Wanosato/Takayama & Izumiso in Ito


We woke up well rested from our sleep on the futons, and decided to go to the communal onsen for a relaxing hot spring.  We put on our Yukatas and made the short journey outside through the winter landscape and into the main building.  The hot spring area was amazing.  The bath is designed to make you feel as if you are truly taking a hot spring bath right in the mountains as the stone work is fashioned into a pseudo-cave like appearance.  There are large windows that look out on to the forested area with the creek running providing spectacular scenery as you bathe.  I literally could have spent hours soaking in the warm waters.  The bath itself is deep enough in areas to completely submerge your body, and provides strategically placed stones for you to sit on within the water to provide a temporary relief should you get too hot.





We had brought our clothes with us as we decided to use the large vanity area to get ready for our day rather than running back to our villa since we would be enjoying our breakfast in the main building as well.  Breakfast was served in a different room than the one where we had dinner,  This room was very spacious, and once again provide large picture windows to the natural beauty outside.  My wife had a traditional Japanese breakfast while I had a more western style breakfast.  The special part of the breakfast for me was the fact that a staff member had woken up early in the morning and travelled into Takayama to a bakery that is famous for its bread.  This bakery has a line in front of its doors well before it opens and they had called ahead to secure bread for especially for me.  After breakfast, we said our goodbyes to the main staff and our driver took us into Takayama for a little more sightseeing and shopping before we went to the train station.  I really enjoyed my time at Wanosato as it was a unique experience of traditional Japanese living and tradition that I had not experienced previously.  I would recommend staying there, as long as you are prepared for the rustic and non-modern charms that it has to offer.

 
Our first stop in Takayama was at their Historical Government House.  This complex dates back to the days of the shogun, and was the main administrative building for the area from approximately 1692 to 1868.  It was here that that the government functions for the area were carried out.  The site is quite large and imposing with its outer walls and many buildings creating a maze for you to tour through.  The first few rooms are mainly empty with small signs letting you know what once occurred in each room, but the tour gets more and more interesting the deeper you venture into the facility.  The rooms include administrative offices, court rooms, living chambers, kitchens, jails equipped with torture devices from the period, as well as a large warehouse where rice was stored as it was collected as the form of tax during the time.  This facility is drenched in history and gives a fascinating look at how Governments carried out their functions during this period.  There are wonderful displays of a wide range of artifacts and it is definitely a must see for anyone with a curiosity of Japanese history.

 
 
Our second stop was to the shops and streets of the famous Takayama Morning Market.  We spent about an hour touring through various stores and shops as well as perusing the various street vendors that were set up along the side of the street.  Of course, there were many items that had been crafted from the beautiful wood in Hida such as toys, kitchenware, sculptures, home items and furniture.  Also in abundance were food items that are famous in this region with many Hida beef products and Sake from the local breweries.  It was great way to spend our time waiting for the time to pass before our train.



Our driver from Wanosato had patiently driven us to our destinations and once done with our shopping he dropped us off at the Takayama train station.  We would now be boarding the Hida Wide View train to Nagoya.  From Nagoya we travelled on the Shinkansen to Odawara.  From Odawara we boarded the Odakyu Line and made our way to Ito.

 
At Ito Station, we were met by a driver from Izumiso who loaded our bags into the van for the short drive to the Ryokan.  The entrance to Izumiso is spectacular as there is a long stairway that leads you into a beautifully lit front entrance.  Upon entering we were politely met by the staff that ushered us to an empty table in the main seating area away from the front desk.  This seating area is elevated above a beautiful Japanese Garden and visitors can enjoy the view while enjoying drinks and talking with one another or using the free wifi available on the main floor.  We were checked in by a wonderful employee who spoke fantastic English and was very helpful in giving us information of the Ryokan.  She then escorted us to our large room.

Our room was a corner suite providing us with large windows with great views of Ito.  There was a main room in which there was a short table with two chairs, a closet for our clothes as well as our supplied Yukatas.  They also provided a safe in which we could lock our valuables.  This room also had a small television and a tea service station with everything required to make tea.  Off of this room was a smaller area separated from the main room by Japanese sliding screens (Shoji screens) with another short table a chairs and a large windows with sliding glass doors providing access to a rooftop garden/balcony.  The suite also had a second large room in which our luggage placed after been brought up by the staff of the Ryokan.  There was no furniture in this room, but it did have access to the other section of our rooftop balcony where our private open-air hot spring bath was located.  The final rooms in the suite included our vanity area, to which the toilet room was located to the left and our main washing are with shower and cedar bath tub located to the right.  All the main areas of the room were connected by a small hallway located just off the main foyer giving the room a nice flow.

After checking out our room, we were given a tour of the entire Ryokan by one of the managers.  He showed us a few different styles of rooms that their guest can enjoy.  In all, Izumiso has 34 rooms in which 7 or 8 of them have their own private open-air hot spring baths.  The rooms vary in sizes, but they all are very spacious.  Some even have two levels with very large living quarters. In the common areas of the Ryokan one can enjoy their free ping pong table, tour the displays on the ancient artifacts that were discovered when the Ryokan was being built, enjoy free coffee or tea in the main seating are of the lobby or shop in their large gift shop.  There is also a small area that provides brochures in multiple languages for the different attractions in the area.
Downstairs from the main lobby area is the outside entrance that leads to the Japanese Garden that you saw from the main lobby.  Immediately to you right is a fantastic and tranquil foot bath area with a small little pool of hot spring water in which to submerge your feet.  Walking past the foot bath you walk towards an outdoor pool that is filled with water from the hot spring.  It is a pool in every sense of the word as you can enjoy swimming in the water wearing your bathing suit and there are even pool toys supplied for your amusement.  To the right of the poll the Japanese Garden spread across the grounds with beautifully landscaped features.  To the left of the pool are the entrances to the separate onsens for men and women.  We were tired and hungry from our trip, so we decided to check out the onsens in the morning and returned to our room to prepare for dinner.

We changed into our Yukatas and made our way down to the dining room, located on the same floor as the entrance to the onsen and garden.  The section of the dining room that we were seated initially had a bit typical restaurant feel but this quickly disappeared as we were led to a semi-private booth beside a large window overlooking the garden.  Our hostess for the evening introduced herself to us in near perfect English and went over the menu for our Kaiseki dinner; she provided us with bot a Japanese and English menu.  Our dinner would consist of 9 dishes and a dessert. 









The entire meal was delicious and the level of service provided to us by our hostess was quite excellent.  She was very patient in answering all of our questions and never made us feel rushed in enjoying our meal.

We returned to our room to discover that our futons had been laid out for us in the main living room.  With our long day of sightseeing and travel followed by an excellent dinner, we were both more than ready to get some sleep.  The futons were quite comfortable and it was not long before both of us were fast asleep.

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